Prologue
Phobjhika Valley is one of the best-kept secrets of Bhutan! Most of the “touristy itineraries” do not cover this little piece of heaven! But this ended up being my one of the most favourite places I have ever visited!
N:B: If you want to see our experience in a Vlog Format, the link is here!
About Phobjikha Valley:
Phobjikha Valley, often referred to as Gangtey Valley, is a pristine and picturesque expanse cradled in the folds of the Himalayas. Situated at an altitude of about 3000 meters (9843 feet) above sea level, this valley is renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich biodiversity, and unique cultural heritage.
One of the valley’s defining features is its role as the wintering home for the endangered black-necked crane.
Adding to the allure of Phobjikha is the Gangtey Gonpa, a 16th-century monastery that stands as a spiritual beacon in the valley and belongs to the Nyingmapa school of Buddhism. The valley also has several picturesque hiking, trekking and biking trails that makes Phobjhika a heaven for nature lovers, bird enthusiasts, or someone seeking tranquility amidst the mountains!
A Scenic Drive: Punakha to Phobjikha Valley
After breakfast, we checked out from our hotel and proceeded towards the high mountains! For a good few kilometres, we went along the Puna Tsang Chu River! Punakha lies at a much lower elevation so even during winter the temperature is comfortable!
After breakfast, we checked out from our hotel and proceeded towards the high mountains! For a good few kilometres, we went along the Puna Tsang Chu River! Punakha lies at a much lower elevation so even during winter the temperature is comfortable!
But there is an elevation change of almost 6000 feet between Punakha and Phobjhika, so the air started to become colder as we continued our journey!
The drive was beautiful! It was passing through the pine forests and beautiful landscapes! We could see several small waterfalls and streams! The road was getting narrower and winding but our driver Wrinchen was some skilful lad and we never felt worried! ( He exhibited ultimate driving skills during our return from Phobjhika! We encountered snowfall and thick fogs at high points and visibility was very bad! But Wrinchen kept of driving and saying “koi problem nahin, chala lunga!”)
We stopped by Khandu Hotel to sip a hot cup of tea! The interior was nice and cosy but we decided to stay outside in the bright sun! From here we could spot some snowcapped mountain peaks! This was an amazing experience and I suggest you stop by the Khandu Hotel for some tea and snack!
As we ascend, the landscape transforms. Yaks dot the highlands, and the first glimpse of the majestic Phobjikha Valley unfolds.
The beauty is breathtaking, and I can’t help but capture the moment. Soon we reached the highlands, navigating through the winding roads and pine forest on the both sides!
Hiking Through Gangtey Nature Trail!
We heard so much about the Gangtey Trail and all were super excited! So instead of reporting to the hotel, we decided to explore the valley first and try our luck to spot the Black Necked Cranes! So, we started the hike with our guide Norbu and asked Wrinchen to wait on the other side of the trail with the vehicle!
There are plenty of hiking and trekking trails in Phobjhika Valley ranging between four hours and two days! So, one could choose between various levels of difficulty and time! Since we had only one day, Norbu took us on the Gangtey Trail which is around 4 km long and easy one!
The Gangtey trail leads us through picturesque villages, weaving a tapestry of peace and serenity. We crossed dense pine forests, some natural streams, and some beautiful pastureland! There was no one but us, there was no sound but the chirping of birds and sounds on gentle kisses of Himalayan air on the pine leaves!
After gentle hiking for one hour, we reached the viewpoint! From here one could see the entire and almost endless valley! And during this time also could spot the Black Necked cranes as they come here from upper Tibet to spend their winter months!
Within the Ambit of the valley an area of 163 square kilometer is declared as protected Zone to provide safe roosting ground for the endangered bird! We could hear them but were not lucky enough to spot! But the valley was amazing the experience was surreal!
Norbu explained how significant, the magnificent bird is for local culture, life and religious believes! The Govt. left most of the valley sans electricity as the overhead wires could cause problem to the migratory birds! And local seems not to mind that!
The valley, declared a protected zone, reflects a harmonious blend of nature and human efforts. It’s a perfect spot to understand the significance of this region as a crucial roosting ground for the endangered, black-necked crane.
Black Necked Crane Information Centre, Gangtey, Bhutan
This is a wonderful place where one could not one finds plenty of information not only about the bird but also flora and fauna of Phobjhika valley in general!
There are number of galleries and a very informative audio-visual contents! Here, we meet a local enthusiast who shares insights into the cranes’ behaviors, migration patterns, and the conservation efforts in place. The center educates tourists and aids them in spotting the cranes with binoculars, fostering a deeper connection between the visitors and the delicate ecosystem. With the volunteer and using binoculars, we spotted number of Black Necked cranes!
By this time the day light was already fading, and the temperature was falling very fast! We were tired and famished! Please note that, Phobjhika get brutally cold during the winter! The temperature may get below freezing point and snowfall is common! So many of the homestay shutdown during the winter and moves to warmer places like Punakha! So, if you are visiting the valley during the colder months be aware, that options of hotels and guest houses are limited as well as restaurants!
Luckily Norbu called Gakiling Guest House, ahead and arranged our lunch! The place was cozy with nice wooden interiors and a fireplace and the food was super yummy! The best one could get after a cold, tiring yet very full-filling day!
We ate so much, that had to skip dinner 😊
By the time we finished our late lunch the daylight was almost gone so headed straight towards the Resort!
Dewachen Hotel & Spa, Phobjikha Valley
While deciding on the hotels as we discussed our itinerary, our travel agent Tashi told “you are going to love the stay” and he was right!
We absolutely loved it! The resort is a 4-star property right on the periphery of the valley and from rooms one could have an amazing view!
The wooden floor rooms are cosy and comfortable! The temperature was dropping thick and fast but we slept like babies under the warmth of the fireplace! After breakfast, we started our return journey! But before we left Phobjhika, there was another must-see attraction we had to visit!
Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan: Where Nature Meets Spirituality
Gangtey Gonpa, is a 16th-century monastery nestled in the Phobjikha Valley. This sacred site, integral to the Nyingma sect of Buddhism, captivates visitors with its timeless charm.
The monastery holds deep connections to the black-necked cranes, and our guide Norbu shared fascinating insights into its history. It is believed, the cranes encircle the monastery 3 times before landing on the valley, and they do the same before returning to Tibet! Every November, the landscape transforms into a haven for Black Necked Cranes. Locals don costumes resembling the prestigious bird during the festivities, celebrating the cranes’ migration from Tibet.
The experience of visiting Ganagtey Gonpa was surreal! The positive energy all around, and the chants of monks, smell of candles made me feel so spiritually high! The central prayer hall with all its intricate and colourful murals and statues looked so beautiful! We had a very fulfilling time inside the monastery! When you are visiting Phobjhika Valley, don’t miss Gangtey Gonpa!
After this, we started our journey down towards Punakha! But on our way, we got the first snowfall of our Bhutan trip!
The view was so amazing! All the grasses and leaves slowly started to turn white! We wanted to spend some more time here but were told by Norbu that the weather is pretty unpredictable during winter! And in case of heavy snowfall, we may get stuck on the road! Alas, we had to leave Phobjhika with the promise “We shall come back again!”
The Urban Nomad 